https://www.tost3.com/ Sun, 10 May 2026 15:10:08 +0000 MyBB https://www.tost3.com/showthread.php?tid=699 Wed, 01 Feb 2023 13:29:15 -0500 CDinVT]]> https://www.tost3.com/showthread.php?tid=699 ]]> ]]> https://www.tost3.com/showthread.php?tid=681 Sat, 17 Dec 2022 18:48:16 -0500 CDinVT]]> https://www.tost3.com/showthread.php?tid=681
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Here are three views of a GEM “Z”. Patent date of 1901.

On the left: when I bought it. A hopeless case 
In the middle: after I cleaned it myself. Hours of work. Slight improvement.
On the right: I just got it back from replating.



I'm pleased. There are other hopeless cases in my small collection.
Did I ruin it for other collectors? 
I don't care. Its sole purpose now is to give ME joy. And that it does.]]>
Here are three views of a GEM “Z”. Patent date of 1901.

On the left: when I bought it. A hopeless case 
In the middle: after I cleaned it myself. Hours of work. Slight improvement.
On the right: I just got it back from replating.



I'm pleased. There are other hopeless cases in my small collection.
Did I ruin it for other collectors? 
I don't care. Its sole purpose now is to give ME joy. And that it does.]]> https://www.tost3.com/showthread.php?tid=485 Wed, 15 Sep 2021 20:43:31 -0400 Old Sarge]]> https://www.tost3.com/showthread.php?tid=485
Below pictures from the Ebay listing of two vintage SE razors that I purchased today. Barring mechanical issues, I'm optimistic that the Gem Damaskeene will clean up nicely while the Ever Ready 1914 will be more of a challenge. I hope to get the 1914 to an acceptable user grade condition. Both were at the top of my Wanna Get list.

I plan to use the tried and true method of soaking the heads in hot/warm water with Dawn dish soap for 30 minutes, followed by scrubbing with a old soft toothbrush and a more firm firearms cleaning style bristle brush. Then spray with non-bleach Scrubbing Bubbles type bathroom cleaner for a 10 minutes soak followed by scrubbing with the brushes. I don't have any acceptable polishing product, but in the near future will order a tube of Flitz.

Do both handles look to be nickel plated steel? And if so, should these be cleaned differently than the heads. What about gently using a firearms cleaning style brass brush on the knurling?

Any advice, particularly with the 1914, will be much appreciated.

Thanks to for giving his opinion on the listing prior to making the buy as this was my first Ebay razor purchase.

PS...Hey , your postimage tip worked perfectly for these images. So much easier than what I was previously doing. Thank you!







]]>
Below pictures from the Ebay listing of two vintage SE razors that I purchased today. Barring mechanical issues, I'm optimistic that the Gem Damaskeene will clean up nicely while the Ever Ready 1914 will be more of a challenge. I hope to get the 1914 to an acceptable user grade condition. Both were at the top of my Wanna Get list.

I plan to use the tried and true method of soaking the heads in hot/warm water with Dawn dish soap for 30 minutes, followed by scrubbing with a old soft toothbrush and a more firm firearms cleaning style bristle brush. Then spray with non-bleach Scrubbing Bubbles type bathroom cleaner for a 10 minutes soak followed by scrubbing with the brushes. I don't have any acceptable polishing product, but in the near future will order a tube of Flitz.

Do both handles look to be nickel plated steel? And if so, should these be cleaned differently than the heads. What about gently using a firearms cleaning style brass brush on the knurling?

Any advice, particularly with the 1914, will be much appreciated.

Thanks to for giving his opinion on the listing prior to making the buy as this was my first Ebay razor purchase.

PS...Hey , your postimage tip worked perfectly for these images. So much easier than what I was previously doing. Thank you!







]]> https://www.tost3.com/showthread.php?tid=430 Sat, 26 Jun 2021 09:40:48 -0400 GAW9576]]> https://www.tost3.com/showthread.php?tid=430 who sent me this razor head. (It was already missing a handle.) I used a drill press, band saw, table router and lots of hand sanding to make this acrylic/resin handle from a pen blank I picked up at my local Woodcraft.
BTW I'm terrible with razor I. D. Could someone kindly tell me which Schick this is?


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  IMG_26062021_092028_(1500_x_1498_pixel).jpg (Size: 382.25 KB / Downloads: 91) ]]> who sent me this razor head. (It was already missing a handle.) I used a drill press, band saw, table router and lots of hand sanding to make this acrylic/resin handle from a pen blank I picked up at my local Woodcraft.
BTW I'm terrible with razor I. D. Could someone kindly tell me which Schick this is?


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  IMG_26062021_092028_(1500_x_1498_pixel).jpg (Size: 382.25 KB / Downloads: 91) ]]> https://www.tost3.com/showthread.php?tid=342 Mon, 08 Mar 2021 22:56:46 -0500 MrGuy]]> https://www.tost3.com/showthread.php?tid=342 My main challenges will be keeping the piece whole throughout the turning process, settling on a suitable finish, and securing the threaded rod. In the past, small pieces with any amount of detail chip out so bad they end up as scrap. I’m not going to aim for a 1:1 recreation of the original handle, but I’d like to keep it in the same ball Park. Beside the tricky material, my sharpening skills are probably not up to par for the needs. I don’t think the pictures show it well but the wood is also quite porous. On the plus side, it is very resistant to rot, but I’m not completely sure how the bare wood will hold up to the water exposure a razor handle sees and all the pores are going to attract soap sum buildup like nothing else. I’m considering a decorative wax with a bronze or silver powder which will look nice and metallic in the pores followed with a light topcoat of some compatible sealer, or simply a non glossy sealant. As far as the threads, I don’t think there’s much I can do besides go slow and steady to drill out the hole for the rod to seat. The thin walls of the wood are going to chip off at the slightest provocation. If I can get at least one usable handle I’ll also attempt to make a decent ferrule on the mini lathe from either brass or aluminum.

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I’ll have 4 chances for a handle from this block, I do have a few more if needed, but I also have some other projects slated where I’d like to just keep the losses to one block.
Any suggestions for how to approach this project, especially if they address any of my main concerns, will be appreciated.
Updates to this thread will come as they happen, likely not much movement for a while though as I work from a non heated garage and it’s still uncomfortably cold out with plenty of time for late winter/early spring blizzards to hit.]]> My main challenges will be keeping the piece whole throughout the turning process, settling on a suitable finish, and securing the threaded rod. In the past, small pieces with any amount of detail chip out so bad they end up as scrap. I’m not going to aim for a 1:1 recreation of the original handle, but I’d like to keep it in the same ball Park. Beside the tricky material, my sharpening skills are probably not up to par for the needs. I don’t think the pictures show it well but the wood is also quite porous. On the plus side, it is very resistant to rot, but I’m not completely sure how the bare wood will hold up to the water exposure a razor handle sees and all the pores are going to attract soap sum buildup like nothing else. I’m considering a decorative wax with a bronze or silver powder which will look nice and metallic in the pores followed with a light topcoat of some compatible sealer, or simply a non glossy sealant. As far as the threads, I don’t think there’s much I can do besides go slow and steady to drill out the hole for the rod to seat. The thin walls of the wood are going to chip off at the slightest provocation. If I can get at least one usable handle I’ll also attempt to make a decent ferrule on the mini lathe from either brass or aluminum.

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I’ll have 4 chances for a handle from this block, I do have a few more if needed, but I also have some other projects slated where I’d like to just keep the losses to one block.
Any suggestions for how to approach this project, especially if they address any of my main concerns, will be appreciated.
Updates to this thread will come as they happen, likely not much movement for a while though as I work from a non heated garage and it’s still uncomfortably cold out with plenty of time for late winter/early spring blizzards to hit.]]> https://www.tost3.com/showthread.php?tid=338 Fri, 05 Mar 2021 21:06:50 -0500 MrGuy]]> https://www.tost3.com/showthread.php?tid=338 As a side note, I got a bunch of morta, also called bog oak, blocks in this week and I think once the weather warms up enough to spin up the lathe again I’m going to give a go to making a new handle with some of that. It’s pretty brittle stuff so I’m not completely confident I’ll be able to figure it all out, but I’ll update on progress if anyone’s interested.]]> As a side note, I got a bunch of morta, also called bog oak, blocks in this week and I think once the weather warms up enough to spin up the lathe again I’m going to give a go to making a new handle with some of that. It’s pretty brittle stuff so I’m not completely confident I’ll be able to figure it all out, but I’ll update on progress if anyone’s interested.]]> https://www.tost3.com/showthread.php?tid=117 Sun, 21 Jun 2020 09:25:45 -0400 GAW9576]]> https://www.tost3.com/showthread.php?tid=117 Well I tried having a very UK shave Friday. I got out my Made in England ER 1912 and my British Made Pal Injectomatic. Then I whipped up a fantastic lather with some UK based Wickham 1912 Irish Fern. This is my first use of Wickham and man this stuff smells great and lathers wonderfully. I loaded a 6th use Gem SS PTFE and started the shave with the ER. This is my second time using this razor. I took a few strokes and looked closely at the razor. I had heard the English/British ERs are more aggressive but this one is mild but I LOVE the handle. Anyway I looked closer and saw that the blade wasn't seated right. Readjust take a stroke look close. Not seated tight. Ok what gives well the blade is shifting all over. Grab my US made ER 1912 try things out, works perfect. Hmmmm. As far as I can tell the blade stops are bent up slightly making to much room for the blade to slip to far under them and making enough room for it to not get properly engage by the back clip. So do I adjust the blade stops? Or do I find a way to adjust the back clip push the blade forward further with would make it a more aggressive razor?

Anyways I finished up the rest of the shave with a pound in the US made ER. Results are a fantastic shave.


  IMG_20200615_203153976.jpg (Size: 385.11 KB / Downloads: 34) ]]> Well I tried having a very UK shave Friday. I got out my Made in England ER 1912 and my British Made Pal Injectomatic. Then I whipped up a fantastic lather with some UK based Wickham 1912 Irish Fern. This is my first use of Wickham and man this stuff smells great and lathers wonderfully. I loaded a 6th use Gem SS PTFE and started the shave with the ER. This is my second time using this razor. I took a few strokes and looked closely at the razor. I had heard the English/British ERs are more aggressive but this one is mild but I LOVE the handle. Anyway I looked closer and saw that the blade wasn't seated right. Readjust take a stroke look close. Not seated tight. Ok what gives well the blade is shifting all over. Grab my US made ER 1912 try things out, works perfect. Hmmmm. As far as I can tell the blade stops are bent up slightly making to much room for the blade to slip to far under them and making enough room for it to not get properly engage by the back clip. So do I adjust the blade stops? Or do I find a way to adjust the back clip push the blade forward further with would make it a more aggressive razor?

Anyways I finished up the rest of the shave with a pound in the US made ER. Results are a fantastic shave.


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